Author: Bruno Histrimont

In Ville-Dommange, Christophe Thiriat, chef and manager of Coq et Vins, offers authentic and local cuisine. Master Restaurateur and member of the Culinary College of France, he favors homemade and short circuits. His long collaboration with Maison Aspasie illustrates his attachment to quality and authenticity.

Can you introduce yourself?

My name is Christophe Thiriat, I am chef and manager of the Coq et Vins restaurant, located in Ville-Dommange (51), in the heart of the Champagne hills. I am a Master Restaurateur and a member of the Collège Culinaire de France, which allows me to make a point of transforming raw products myself: I make my own bread every day, and all the sauces, ice creams and sorbets are homemade. .

What is your particularity?

I mainly work in a short supply chain, except for fish, which I still select mainly from France. My restaurant offers a lunch menu every week consisting of 3 starters, 3 main courses and 3 desserts of your choice. In the evening and on weekends, I offer a menu with more noble and sophisticated products. I particularly like working with fish.

Why did you choose to work with Maison Aspasie?

Well before my move, I already knew the Ariston family for whom I traveled as a caterer. It is therefore a relationship of trust and recognition which has lasted for several years.

When I opened my establishment in 2019, I naturally chose to work with Maison Aspasie. I appreciate the quality of their vintages, their way of working as well as their state of mind: they are generous and deeply kind people.

What is your favorite champagne, and why?

My favorite vintage is Blanc de Blancs for its freshness. We often recommend it to our customers, mainly as an aperitif or to accompany an iodized dish.

For an elegant meal, nothing beats pairing a refined dish with a distinguished champagne. Today, we invite you to discover a delicious recipe for roast suckling pig rack with seasonal vegetables, beautifully complemented by our champagne Aspasie Brut Réserve, with its delicate aromas of white flowers and a blend of different crus, this champagne will elevate the rich flavors of the dish.

Ingredients :

• 1 rack of suckling pig
• Assortment of seasonal vegetables (e.g., carrots, parsnips, Brussels sprouts)
• 2 cloves of garlic, minced
• 2 tablespoons olive oil
• 30 g butter
• 1 sprig of rosemary
• Salt and pepper to taste

Preparation :

Prepping the suckling pig rack: Season the rack of suckling pig with salt, pepper, and minced garlic. Let it marinate for 30 minutes to allow the flavors to infuse.

Cooking the suckling pig rack: Preheat the oven to 180°C (350°F). In a roasting pan, heat the olive oil and butter over medium heat. Add the sprig of rosemary and sear the rack of suckling pig on all sides until golden brown. Place the pan in the oven and roast for 45 minutes to 1 hour, or until the meat is tender and juicy.

Preparing the seasonal vegetables: While the pig is roasting, wash and chop the seasonal vegetables. Toss them with olive oil, salt, and pepper. Spread them on a baking sheet and roast in the oven alongside the pig for 20-30 minutes, or until they are caramelized and tender.

Assembling the dish: Remove the rack of suckling pig from the oven and let it rest for 10 minutes before slicing. Serve the sliced pig with the roasted seasonal vegetables, drizzled with the pan juices for added flavor.

Tasting Tips

To fully enjoy this Champagne Brut Réserve Aspasie with roast suckling pig rack and seasonal vegetables, serve it at the ideal temperature of 9°C. Use a slender, curved glass to enhance the delicate aromas of white flowers such as hawthorn, acacia, and orange blossom. The champagne’s lively bubbles and fresh, mineral palate will beautifully complement the savory, rich flavors of the pork and vegetables. This pairing creates a harmonious balance between the champagne’s finesse and the dish’s robust flavors, providing a memorable dining experience.

At the end of summer, around mid-August, we begin the harvest. It is an intense period where every gesture counts, where passion mixes with rigor to reap the rewards of an entire year of hard work.

The Heart of Champagne 

For two to three weeks, the whole of Champagne beats to the rhythm of the harvest. It is a time of gathering and celebration, but above all, a time of hard work and extreme precision. At Champagne Aspasie, we welcome this period with careful preparation, because the grape harvest is much more than just a harvest: it marks the start of a new adventure for our prestigious wines.

The hand of man and the art of perfect timing

At Champagne Aspasie, the harvest is done exclusively by hand. Each grape is picked with meticulous attention to preserve its quality and integrity. Choosing the exact moment to start the harvest depends on the delicate balance between acidity and optimal ripeness of the grapes.

Quality before quantity 

The quantities harvested are strictly regulated by rigorous regulations established by the Champagne Committee and the I.N.A.O., in compliance with the limits set by the European Union. Our objective is clear: to prioritize the quality of the grapes to guarantee exceptional vintages.

The beginning of a long epic

The harvest is the starting point for the transformation of the grapes into Champagne. Each carefully picked bunch is transported quickly to our pressing centers, in order to preserve the purity of the juices and ensure quality.

A Tradition, A Passion

At Champagne Aspasie, we celebrate this centuries-old tradition every year with pride and devotion. It is a moment when history repeats itself, where expertise is passed down from generation to generation, to offer our customers exceptional champagnes, the fruit of a unique terroir and incomparable know-how.

The grape harvests are much more than just a harvest, they are the symbol of our commitment to quality and excellence, each year crafting vintages that appeal to the most demanding palates around the world.

Located between Dunkirk and Lille, Mont Di’Vin is much more than just a wine cellar. Founded by Yann and Anneline Satin, this establishment offers a real experience around wine and spirits. The couple has created a warm and refined place, where quality wines, local products, and food and wine pairings come together. Discover behind the scenes of this essential address in Hauts-de-France and partner of Aspasie.

Can you tell us a little more about yourself and the birth of Mont Di’Vin ?

My name is Yann Satin, sommelier and founder of Mont Di’Vin, located between Dunkirk and Lille, in Cassel, in Hauts-de-France. Alongside my wife Anneline Satin, we opened Mont Di’Vin a year and a half ago, which includes a wine cellar as well as a delicatessen. 

We organize events and also offer tasting boards. My wife Anneline manages the boards and wine bar, and I manage the sommelier.

Together, we form a complementary team with the desire to share our passion for good things and to offer a unique and friendly tasting experience to each of our customers.

What is unique about your establishment ?

Mont Di’Vin stands out for the diversity of its products: wines, champagnes, spirits, local soft drinks. We organize tasting workshops, with tailor-made food and wine pairings to meet the expectations of our customers. These workshops are limited to 12 places, the dates can be found on our Facebook account. 

It is possible to privatize these workshops from 8 people, and to choose a specific tasting theme.

Since when and why did you choose to work with Maison Aspasie ?

I spent a few months in a restaurant located in Aisne, not far from the Ariston family estate. Since then, we have built a strong partnership with Aspasie. We always carefully select the houses and vintages that we offer, by visiting the estates and tasting on site. It is a partnership based on quality and trust.

What is your favorite champagne, why?

Among the champagnes that Aspasie offers, Blanc de Blancs is by far my favorite. Its creamy and round texture, combined with liveliness and minerality, makes it a remarkable champagne. It is a vintage that perfectly reflects the soul and know-how of the Aspasie house.

The final word is yours

Our ambition is to continue to perpetuate Mont Di’Vin, while reasonably developing our activity. As Best Sommelier of Belgium 2005 and Master Sommelier of the Union de la Sommellerie Française since 2015, I am proud of how far we have come. We also hope to continue to organize wine events and workshops for our customers, while maintaining the quality and authenticity of what we offer.

For an exceptional dinner, nothing beats the perfect pairing of a refined dish with an excellent champagne. Today, we invite you to discover an exquisite recipe for shellfish stew, enhanced by the Brut Millésime 2013 cuvée from Champagne Aspasie. With its aromas of dried fruits and its perfect balance of power and refinement, this golden-hued cuvée will beautifully elevate the delicate flavors of seafood.

Ingredients:

• 1 kg mixed shellfish (mussels, clams, cockles)
• 1 shallot, finely chopped
• 1 garlic clove, minced
• 200 ml fish stock
• 100 ml dry white wine
• 100 ml fresh cream
• 30 g butter
• 1 sprig of thyme
• 1 bay leaf
• Fresh parsley, chopped
• Salt and pepper to taste

Preparation:

Cleaning the Shellfish: Rinse the shellfish thoroughly under cold water to remove sand and impurities. Discard any that are open and do not close when lightly tapped.

Cooking the Shellfish: In a large pot, melt the butter over medium heat. Add the shallot and garlic, and sauté until translucent. Add the thyme, bay leaf, and shellfish. Pour in the white wine and cover the pot. Cook over high heat for 5 to 7 minutes, until the shellfish open. Remove them with a slotted spoon and set aside.

Preparing the Fish Broth: Add the fish stock to the shellfish cooking juice and reduce by half. Then, stir in the fresh cream and heat over low heat until the sauce slightly thickens. Adjust seasoning with salt and pepper.

Assembling the Dish: Return the shellfish to the pot to warm them in the sauce. Serve hot, garnished with chopped fresh parsley.

Tasting Tips

To fully enjoy the Brut Millésime 2013 from Champagne Aspasie with a shellfish stew, start by serving it at the ideal temperature of 9°C to reveal all its freshness. Use a slender, curved glass to concentrate the aromas while appreciating the finesse of the bubbles. This champagne, with its slight citrus acidity, perfectly complements the delicate and marine flavors of the shellfish, creating a harmonious balance between the freshness of the dish and the wine’s liveliness. Take time to savor each sip, alternating with a bite of your dish, for a memorable tasting experience where each element enhances the other.

Crafted with love and precision, Cépages d’Antan highlights three ancient white grape varieties: Arbane, Petit Meslier and Pinot Blanc. This article takes you to discover these grape varieties, their history and the passion behind this unique creation.

The History of Ancient Grape Varieties

The grape varieties of yesteryear are not simple vestiges of the past, but living witnesses of ancient winemaking traditions. They are almost forgotten today, dominated by more common grape varieties such as Pinot Noir, Pinot Meunier and Chardonnay, which cover 99% of the Champagne vineyards. However, Arbane, Petit Meslier and Pinot Blanc have unique characteristics that make them valuable in the production of exceptional wines.

The Cépages d’Antan vintage from Champagne Aspasie: the Project of a Lifetime

The “Cépages d’Antan” cuvée from Champagne Aspasie is much more than just a wine. It is the result of a project lasting more than 30 years, started with the desire to revive the spirit of initiative and passion of the ancestor Aspasia. This meticulous work includes the rigorous selection of plants, the choice of land and the application of ancestral winemaking techniques. Each step has been designed to preserve the freshness and richness of the aromas, with prolonged aging in the cellar to perfect the balance and lightness of the wine.

The Rare Grape Varieties of the Cuvée Cépages d’Antan

Arbane: Originally from Aube, Arbane is a difficult grape variety to cultivate, sensitive to frost. This rare grape variety produces a wine rich in alcohol and with good acidity, with a generous and elegant bouquet.

Petit Meslier: Mainly grown in the Marne Valley, this white grape variety is often compared to Pinot Meunier for its similar evolution. It offers a fine, lively wine, rich in alcohol, with an aromatic typicity close to Sauvignon.

Pinot Blanc: A grape variety once widely planted in the Marne Valley, Pinot Blanc is a vigorous and cold-resistant grape variety. Although it produces a quality wine, it is often blended with other grape varieties to enhance its aromatic potential.

A Unique Tasting

The “Cépages d’Antan” cuvée from Champagne Aspasie is distinguished by its dry, generous and bouquety character. Its brioche notes and good length on the palate make it an ideal choice for an aperitif or to accompany delicate dishes such as pan-fried John Dory or sushi. The nose is floral and fresh, dominated by citrus aromas, with a bright pale yellow color.

The Champagne Cépages d’Antan from the Aspasie estate, crafted from three rare grape varieties, pairs beautifully with delicate dishes. One such perfect pairing is the roasted John Dory fillet, accompanied by a Jerusalem artichoke puree with hazelnut oil. This combination enhances the aromatic complexity of the champagne while highlighting the dish’s finesse. Discover how to prepare this recipe and elevate your tasting experience with this exceptional champagne.

Ingredients (Serves 4)

For the John Dory:

• 4 John Dory fillets (about 150-200g each)
• 2 tablespoons of olive oil
• Salt and freshly ground black pepper
• 1 sprig of fresh thyme
• 1 lemon (for the juice)

For the Jerusalem Artichoke Puree:

• 600g Jerusalem artichokes
• 200g potatoes
• 50g butter
• 100ml crème fraîche
• 2 tablespoons of hazelnut oil
• Salt and pepper

For Garnishing:

• Crushed hazelnuts (optional, for added crunch)
• A few sprigs of fresh chives, finely chopped

Preparation

1. Preparing the Jerusalem Artichoke Purée:

• Peeling and Chopping: Peel the Jerusalem artichokes and potatoes, then cut them into evenly sized pieces to ensure even cooking.
• Cooking: Place the pieces in a large pot of cold salted water. Bring to a boil and cook over medium heat for about 20 minutes, or until tender when pierced with a fork.
• Mashing: Drain the cooked vegetables well, then return them to the pot. Add the butter and mash with a potato masher or blend to achieve a smooth, creamy texture.
• Finishing the Purée: Stir in the crème fraîche for added creaminess, then add the hazelnut oil, which imparts a subtly toasted, rich flavor to the purée. Season with salt and pepper to taste, then keep the purée warm.

2. Cooking the John Dory:

• Preparing the Fillets: Preheat your oven to 180°C (350°F). Pat the John Dory fillets dry with paper towels for better cooking. Season both sides with salt, pepper, and a squeeze of lemon juice to enhance their flavor.
• Pan-Searing: Heat the olive oil in a non-stick pan over medium heat. When the oil is hot, place the John Dory fillets skin-side down. Cook without moving them for 3 to 4 minutes until the skin is golden and crispy.
• Oven-Baking: Carefully flip the fillets, add the sprig of thyme to the pan to infuse the fish with its aroma, then transfer the pan to the preheated oven. Bake for an additional 5 to 7 minutes until the fish is just cooked through and flakes easily with a fork.

3. Plating:

• On the Plate: Place a John Dory fillet in the center of each plate, skin-side up to showcase its beautiful golden texture.
• Adding the Purée: Next to the fish, add a generous quenelle of Jerusalem artichoke purée. Use two spoons to form an elegant quenelle shape.
• Garnishing: For a touch of crunch, sprinkle crushed hazelnuts over the purée. Finish with a few sprigs of finely chopped chives to add a note of freshness and color.

Tasting Tips

To enhance this refined dish, serve it with Champagne Cépages d’Antan from the Aspasie estate. This champagne should be served at an ideal temperature of 10°C in a slender, tulip-shaped glass, allowing the aromas to fully express themselves. The chalky minerality, lemony freshness, and herbal aromas of this champagne perfectly complement the smoothness of the Jerusalem artichoke purée and the delicate John Dory. This pairing reveals the champagne’s precision and character, which evolves on the palate with rare elegance, creating a harmonious and unforgettable tasting experience.

With the arrival of summer, the vines begin to fully blossom. At Champagne Aspasie, this period is marked by an important stage in the vine cycle: pruning. Let’s discover together this essential viticultural practice which prepares our vines to produce exceptional grapes.

What is trimming?

Trimming is a viticultural technique consisting of pruning the ends of the vine branches. This operation, which begins at the end of June and beginning of July, continues until the harvest. Unlike winter pruning which shapes the structure of the vine for the following year, pruning is a summer intervention aimed at controlling excessive vegetation growth.

Why is trimming so important?

Trimming plays an essential role for several reasons:

• Vegetation control: By limiting the growth of leaves and shoots, pruning allows the vine’s resources to be concentrated on the fruit. Less vegetation means more nutrients for the grapes, which is essential for producing high quality bunches.
• Improved aeration and light: A vine that is too leafy can create a disease-prone environment by preventing proper air circulation and reducing the grapes’ exposure to sunlight. Pruning helps maintain a healthy, sturdy vine.
• Facilitating treatments and harvests: A well-trimmed vine is easier to treat against pests and diseases, and it also simplifies the work of the pickers by making the bunches more accessible.

Trimming at Champagne Aspasie

At Champagne Aspasie, we approach trimming with meticulous care. We often speak of “trimming” in the plural, because this operation is carried out in several passes. A minimum of two passes is necessary, but it may take up to four depending on climatic conditions and the vigor of the vines. Each pass is an opportunity to refine the work and ensure that our vines remain in perfect condition throughout the summer.

A balance between tradition and modernity

We combine winemaking traditions passed down for generations with modern techniques to optimize each stage of vine cultivation. Trimming is a perfect example. This traditional method, essential to viticulture, is carried out with modern tools and practices to guarantee the best possible development of our precious vines.

As summer approaches, the vineyard enters an important phase of its annual cycle. Among the many tasks, trellising stands out for its importance for the health and productivity of the vine. Discover this meticulous and essential technique which allows you to “let the bunches breathe”.

What is trellising?

Trellising consists of using two wires passed through staples attached to stakes to contain and guide the branches of the vine. The branches are carefully distributed between these two wires, thus allowing better organization and ventilation of the plant.

Training objectives

The main objective of trellising is to separate the branches to prevent them from overlapping and intertwining. This careful organization guarantees each branch enough space to grow freely and in good health.

In addition, trellising optimizes the leaves’ exposure to the sun. By spacing the leaves apart, they can capture the maximum amount of sunlight, essential for photosynthesis and proper ripening of the bunches.

Finally, this technique improves air circulation. Proper aeration of leaves and bunches reduces the risk of disease and rot, promoting better overall vine health.

The benefits of trellising

Training allows each leaf to be exposed to the sun, thus optimizing the photosynthesis process. Good light exposure is crucial for sugar production in the bunches, determining the quality and sugar content of the grapes.

Manual intervention

Trellising is an artisanal job, carried out entirely by hand. Each branch is carefully placed between the lifting wires, a task that requires time and patience. This human intervention guarantees particular attention to each vine, thus ensuring harmonious and balanced growth of the plant.

Refined, elegant and perfectly balanced, Champagne Brut Rosé from Maison Aspasie enhances every moment with a touch of sophistication. This vinous champagne, with its mineral freshness, goes wonderfully with dishes of character. Today we offer you a recipe for beef carpaccio which, accompanied by Brut Rosé, promises an unforgettable gastronomic experience.

Ingredients : 

• 300g tender beef fillet
• 50g fresh rocket
• 50g shaved parmesan
• 1 lemon
• 3 tablespoons of extra virgin olive oil
• Flower of salt
• Freshly ground black pepper
• A few capers (optional)
• A few fresh basil leaves for garnish

Instructions : 

Preparation of the meat: Place the beef fillet in the freezer for approximately 30 minutes. This will make it easier to cut into thin slices. Once firmed, take it out and cut it into very thin slices using a sharp knife.

Arrange the beef slices on a large plate in a single layer, being careful not to overlap.

Seasoning: Squeeze the lemon and gently sprinkle the carpaccio with the juice. Then pour in the olive oil evenly. Sprinkle with fleur de sel and freshly ground black pepper.

Garnish: Spread the rocket leaves and parmesan shavings over the carpaccio. Add some capers if desired for an extra touch of flavor.

Finish: Garnish with a few fresh basil leaves to add an aromatic and visually appealing note.

Tasting Tips

Beef Carpaccio, with its delicate flavors and melting texture, finds an ideal companion in Champagne Brut Rosé Aspasie. The orange-pink color of this champagne, its notes of wild strawberry, blood orange and quince, as well as its dry and fresh palate with pomelo acidity, create a perfect harmony with the subtlety of the carpaccio.

For optimal tasting, serve the champagne at a temperature of 9°C in a slender, curved glass. This glass format allows the delicate aromas to be concentrated and the freshness of the champagne to be preserved. Enjoy this unique moment, where each bite and each sip complement each other in a symphony of exquisite flavors.